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* For clothes, there's only one choice--The Grace Note at Royal and Dumaine. Most things here are one-of-a-kind; expensive, but exquisite. Of particular interest are proprietor Jann Dreyer's own designs, most made of vintage fabric. 

* Ya/Ya Gallery at 601 Baronne. If you don't know about Young Artists/Young Aspirations, you should. These kids paint fanciful chairs, design fabulous fabric, batik gorgeous scarves--wonderful stuff.

* Thomas Mann Gallery, 1810 Magazine. Thomas Mann is a nationally known jewelry designer who calls his offbeat style "techno-romantic". Happy to say he's a local boy.

* Rhino Gallery at Canal Place and 927 Royal Street.--a co-op featuring work by local craftsmen, including jewelry, glass, clothing, and ceramics.

* Framboyan at 624 Dumaine. Small antiques, good prices. Specializes in Japanese objets, but proprietor Kip Michael's got everything you can name.

* Magazine Street, one end to the other. I can't say enough for the delights and pleasures of wandering Magazine. Take a whole day. Eat at Casamento's. Special interest: Mario Villa 3908 Magazine, has truly exquisite metal furniture.

* Faulkner House Books, 624 Pirate's Alley--great collection of Southern literature. A must for collectors.

* Tower Records, 408 N.Peters. That's right. For truly comprehensive selection of local music. Trust me-- you'll be amazed. Or avoid chain-shopping and go to the wonderful Louisianna Music Factory, 210 Decatur St.

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